Above: Pinxtos at Kapikua Casco Viejo
For a break between traditional American holiday fare, here is part two of restaurants we sampled for you in Bilbao last year. Might as well begin with more of the competitive sport of ordering pinxtos in our crowded neighborhood spot, Kapikua Casco Viejo. Doesn’t take very many of these hearty appetizers to make a meal.
Above: Kapikua Casco Viejo
With a sleek Scandinavian-look inside, Kokken is located on a contemporary commercial plaza located below the northeast side of Etxebarria Park. The kitchen stresses local ingredients, so the menu offerings change daily. Diners select from the list of the day’s courses.
We found ourselves ordering dishes we might not have ordered faced with a broader menu, but all were palate-pleasing. The morcilla pate was silky smooth and rich. Parmesan cheese and jamon spiked up the flavor of a soft-cooked egg. A dense spicy broth made a garbanzo and calamari stew a meal in itself. Wild seta mushrooms and truffles filled croquetas, and a light peachy dessert in a glass finished off our meal.
Above: Kokken Restaurante
Decidedly not fancy, La Batea Mejillonerias is the spot to head for fresh Gallician mussels. An amuse-bouche of mussels and a pair of moist prawn provided a nice introduction.
All portions were generous. Unfortunately, the sauce on the tiger mussels was generous to the point of drowning them. Steamed mussels would be a better choice. The kitchen sure knows how to fry. We devoured our platters of fried padron chiles, anchovies and squid.
Above: La Batea Mejillonerias
Laga Restaurante is known for its paella, and that’s what we wanted. Preceded by fried eggplant, we opted to share a pan with its rice stained black from the ink of squid. The only complaint was that much of the seafood was divorced from the flavors of the rice; although I do admit I would not have wanted to fish out and peel the prawns splayed out upon that finger-staining bed. The brownie was as sweet and decadent as it looked.
Above: Laga Restaurante
Las Mil Delicias is a hole-in-the-wall bakery turning out the best South American-style empanadas I think I’ve ever had. Several times, while walking back to our apartment, we stopped to grab a couple for either a nighttime snack or breakfast the next morning. Most customers preferred to devour theirs piping hot while standing at one of two round tabletops outside the bakery’s doors.
Above: Las Mil Delicias
The interior of Nicolas Restaurante was sleekly contemporary, with mirrors brightening the beamed interior. Reflecting on these photos, I’m realizing how much fried food I order in Spain. It tends to be perfectly cooked and non-greasy to the point it seems light. Below you see some of the evidence of my fall into decadence – calamari, croquetas and padron chiles. I promise these were not all consumed during one visit.
Aside from fried, the grilled pulpo was moist and tender, with just the right amount of caramelizing char around its edges. The highly reduced sauce enhanced the falling-apart-tender oxtails, and large seta boletos added a woodsy richness to an order of risotto. A rice pudding foam covering caramel ice cream proved a refreshingly light dessert.
Above: Nicolas Restaurante
We started this alphabetical listing in an earlier post with Al Margen and now are winding it up with one of its siblings, Pam & Ko. Its fresh and beautifully prepared sashimi, nigiris and rolls were a welcome change from heavy Spanish dishes. The Japanese curry soup with shrimp was filled to the brim with vegetables, perfect for days with a chill.
Above: Pam & Ko
This post has been sitting in draft form, unposted for a while. Sadly, when I dusted it off, I saw Pam & Ko had closed. The good news is that the sushi artist pictured above has relocated to Al Margen’s newest child, a craft cocktail bar, Bardos Al Margen.
The Basque can’t seem to help but make good food from great ingredients…. Jamon, wild mushrooms, perfectly grilled turbot, the last squid of the season – everyday eating feels like one long bounce from one great little place to another.”
Anthony Bourdain’s Field Notes, September 25, 2017
Always hope these food posts will help others navigate their way to discover a restaurant they might love. Buen provecho.
Postcards from Barton Springs 