Postcard from Guadalajara, Mexico: The anguish of man battling oppression

A postage stamp commemorating the 175th anniversary of the death of Miguel Hidalgo, featuring an artistic depiction by J.C. Orozco. The design showcases Hidalgo in a dramatic pose, with vivid colors and expressive details.

Above: Rotating views of Jose Clemente Orozco’s “Man of Fire” fresco in the dome of Instituto Cultural Cabanas, 1937-1939

An artist is a freedom fighter, fighting for the liberation of the human spirit.”

Jose Clemente Orozco (1883-1949)

At the age of 20, Orozco was in the process of prepping fireworks, when: Boom! He delayed treatment, and gangrene gained hold of his wound. So, his left hand had to be removed, a tragedy that spared him from being drafted into the trenches of the Mexican Revolution.

But the artist did not stand idly as history unfolded; he honed art as his weapon. His art evolved into something stark, dark and boldly modern. His offensive was against all and any institutions that kept the common man in a state of poverty – art meant to shame the rich and privileged and inspire the poor.

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Postcard from Pontevedra, Spain: Refueling stop for peregrinos

A vintage Spanish postage stamp featuring a bridge over a river, with intricate architectural details and the text 'Correos' and 'España' alongside a denomination of '3 ptas'.

Above: Zamburinas for sale in Mercado de Abastos

During temperate seasons, approximately 280,000 pilgrims strike out on one of the Portuguese routes to Santiago de Campostela, passing through Pontevedra on their way. Pilgrims from around the world walk Camino de Santiago, collecting shell stamps as proof of stops and actual scallop shells as souvenirs. Long ago, it is said these shells served as scoops for food offered at the door of inns along the way.

Myths surround this symbol of Saint James, from his saintly remains being borne ashore at Campostela atop shells to miraculous legends of loved ones who drowned emerging alive from the sea covered in scallop shells. The ridges of the shell symbolize diverse pilgrimage routes, all converging upon Santiago de Compostela.

Whatever the religious symbolism, the zamburinas of the region are famed for their distinctive texture and flavor. Like eggshells for cascarones at Fiesta San Antonio, someone has to empty those shells for the pilgrims. So, we try to do our part by pursuing those delectable Galician zamburinas wherever we can, which translates to every couple of years. (Read about their red “commas” in an earlier postcard sent from Zaragoza in 2022.)

For all of those walkers in Pontevedra arriving tired and hungry yet spiritually recharged, we’ll take a detour before scallops because my alphabetical listing of restaurants dictates it.

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Postcard from Trieste, Italy: Nightmarish end to palatial dreams

An Italian postage stamp featuring a scenic view of the Miramare Gardens in Trieste, showcasing neatly trimmed hedges, a statue, and a fountain against a background of trees and the sea.

Above: Miramare, a palace erected by Princess Charlotte of Belgium and Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Austria

At age 22, Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian (1832-1867) was named Commander-in-Chief of the Austrian Navy. Sailing in 1855 in the Gulf of Trieste, then ruled by the Kingdom of Austria, the young archduke spotted a promontory jutting out into the water. Barren, rocky, yet a gorgeous waterfront view on three sides. He decided to acquire the land for his home.

Construction of the house, which he named Miramare, was already underway at the time of his 1857 marriage to Princess Charlotte of Belgium (1840-1927). Also in 1857, his older brother, Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria (1830-1916), appointed Maximilian Viceroy of Lombardy-Venetia.

The couple moved into the Royal Palace of Milan while continuing work on Miramare. Charlotte’s royal dowry contributed to the money-pit project, including bringing in tons of dirt and topsoil for extensive gardens. Surrounded by all the requisite family portraits, the couple moved into their completed dream home in 1860.

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