Street art encountered in Malaga, Spain
Only a decade or so old, but WordPress kept dropping hints that my blog format was outdated and becoming obsolete. The time was approaching that it would no longer function on the platform.
So here it is: the first post with a new look in a format I am trying to master. I promise not to include any of the curse words that my slip out of my mouth as I try to make heads and tails of it.
It happens to be that time of the year, halfway through, for that exciting list of what posts you have clicked on most during the past 12 months. My book has not dropped off the list yet, and I am grateful for that and that you continue to let the blog play boulevardier even though the writer actually is in a state of corona-hibernation.
Click here to read the rest of this post and view more photos
Seafood Ravioli at Radici – Market, Food & Caffetteria
With only skimpy sandwiches for lunch, we were ready for a sit-down meal after arriving in Lecce well after nightfall. We walked out the door of our apartment and crossed the street upon the recommendation of our landlord and entered what became our favorite restaurant in Lecce, Osteria 203.
The intimate restaurant had us hooked with the contorni, a varying trio of seasonal vegetables. Unlike in Naples, vegetable sides and antipasti were easy to come by in Lecce. But Osteria 203 also provided the Mister with his favorite dish of the entire trip, stinco di maiale. The enormous braised pork shank was falling-off-the-bone tender and was served in a pool of a rich red wine sauce. The fried young artichokes were highly addictive, and how can one resist trying purple gnocchi. Our only disappointment with the Osteria 203 is that it closed during our final week to repaint the interior, depriving the Mister of his third order of stinco.
Il Rifugio della Buona Stella is an unpretentious family-run restaurant with generous antipasto plates and regional pasta dishes, such as pasta with rape, turnip tops, all offered at resident-friendly prices. On our second visit there, we were accompanied by our daughter and fidanzato, and it proved a most pleasant experience.
Next to us was a family birthday celebration, a table of about 16 from multiple generations. The group was not rowdy at all, just enjoying exchanging family stories. We lingered sharing multiple courses, as did they. When it came time for them to cut into a luscious cake, they sent the youngest girl over with plates for us. And then they poured glasses of prosecco for us to share in toasting the young woman who was their guest of honor. There was something so warm and touching, and we felt so flattered to be embraced by locals instead of being dismissed as just tourists at the next table. It helped our standing that the Mister was able to go to the other room and ask the owner for a simple birthday toast and thank you he offered to them in Italian.
I Latini seafood linguini
I Latini fried seafood platter
Radici fusilloni with pesto
La Cucina di Mamma Elvira contourni
Radici ravioli with parmesan sauce
Osteria 203 seafood-filled ravioli
Enogastronomia Povero eggplant stuffed with vegetables
La Cucina di Mamma Elvira vegetable antipasto
Osteria 203 stinco di maiale, braised pork shank with red wine sauce
L’Ostrica Ubriaca fried seafood
Radici salmon with couscous
Osteria 203 contourni
L’Ostrica Ubriaca linguini with clams
Il Rifugio della Buona Stella vegetable antipasto
Il Rifugio della Buona Stella pasta with meatballs
L’Ostrica Ubriaca tuna carpaccio
polpette di cavallo
Osteria 203 pasta with porcini and pumpkin
La Cucina di Mamma Elvira fettuccine with swordfish, eggplant and almonds
I Latini chickpea and clam soup
Osteria 203 purple gnocchi with lime-cured cod carpaccio
La Cucina di Mamma Elvira ravioli
I Latini pistachio-crusted tuna
Il Rifugio della Buona Stella maccheroncini with swordfish, rape (turnip tops) and tomatoes
Crianza Chianina hamburger
Il Rifugio della Buona Stella orecchiette with rape (turnip tops)
La Cantina delle Streghe eggplant and burrata bruschetta
Osteria 203 fried artichokes
I Latini pulpo polpette popped into our mouths so quickly we neglected to take a photo before pausing to see who got to eat the last one
La Cucina di Mamma Elvira eggplant polpette
Other spots we visited represented by photos above:
- Crianza – If you are pining to sample some of Italy’s prized Chianina beef, the Mister swears his was about the best hamburger he has ever eaten.
- I Latini – This spot felt touristy, but it was always open when others failed us. Despite that initial feeling, we must admit the seafood dishes, such as linguini, pistachio-crusted tuna and clam and chickpea soup, were delicious.
- La Cantina delle Streghe – A good spot for wine and bruschetta
- La Cucina di Mamma Elvira – Great vegetables and pasta, but do not fail to order the eggplant polpette.
- L’Ostrica Ubriaca – We trekked to the one way outside the walls. It was a little spartan, but the seafood was always fresh. A new more upscale version recently had opened right outside the old city gate, but we did not try that location.
- Radici – Market, Food & Caffetteria – Contemporary and casual, attracting a host of locals. The fidanzato highly recommends the seafood ravioli in the featured photo.
Hopefully, all of these restaurants made it through quarantine times and are beginning to welcome diners back.
Large mixed vegetable plate, changing daily, at Un Sorriso Integrale
As seen in an earlier post, seafood often dominated our orders in restaurants. Great seafood often proved easier to locate than the vegetables we found ourselves craving.
Un Sorriso Integrale – Amico Bio Napoli was our salvation. We probably ate there five or six times for vegetable catch-up days. The selection is diverse and always changing to take advantage of the best vegetables of the season. And all are amazingly inexpensive. Always start with a dish of their spicy, truly spicy, fried chickpeas. Rather than make up my mind, I loved getting their mixed plate, which comes with a bowl of soup and six different vegetable combinations. The Mister was hooked on the wok plate. Oh, and a little picante chocolate soufflé to round out the meal.
Antichi Sapori Partenopei eggplant
Sorriso Integrale falafel
Sorriso Integrale spicy fried chickpeas
Re Lazzarone pearl-like pasta with vegetables
Sorriso Integrale eggplant
Re Lazzarone chocolate mousse
Anonymous Trattoria Gourmet pasta e patate
Godot Restaurant eggplant parmigiana
Re Lazzarone oriccette with broccoli and speck
Sorriso Integrale vegetable stirfry
Godot Restaurant croquettes
Sorriso Integrale chocolate souffle picante
Re Lazzarone ravioli
Trattoria Scugnizzi Vomero fried pizza
Olio & Pomodoro salad
Sorriso Integrale gilled eggplant, stuffed peppers, fried pumpkin cake
Pizzeria Errico Porzio Vomero genovese and margherita pizzas
Anonymous Trattoria Gourmet bruschetta
Anonymous Trattoria Gourmet paccheri alla bufalina
Olio & Pomodoro split pizza
Anonymous Trattoria Gourmet contorni
Trattoria Scugnizzi Vomero antipasti part I
Trattoria Scugnizzi margherita pizza with eggplant
Trattoria Scugnizzi Vomero antipasti part II
Paccheri, an extra-large tubular pasta, seems to be a favorite regional pasta, with good reason. Antipasti combinations, such as the five-plate selection spread over two photos at Trattoria Scugnizzi Vomero, invite exploration. Two distinctively Neopolitan dishes we tried once but failed to understand their popularity were pasta e patate (pasta and potato is quite a starchy overload) and fried pizza (way too much fried dough).
Most of these restaurants are frequented by locals and were mentioned in the seafood post, so this time around I will just post their links to click in case a photo inspires you to investigate whether to add them to your list of places to try. Since most of these are not tourist-dependent, I am hoping they will survive the current slow-down.
In the Vomero neighborhood:
Trattoria Scugnizzi Vomero
Olio e Pomodoro
Pizzeria Errico Porzio Vomero
In the historic center:
Re Lazzarone Trattoria Contemporanea
Anonymous Trattoria Gourmet
Antichi Sapori Partenenopei