Hallowed inspiration for bedeviled costumes

articulated demon-scarer cathedral museum of leon

Above: A 17th-century articulated “espantadiablo,” Cathedral Museum of Leon, Spain

The devil-scarer or demon-scarer is part of the repertoire of figures and amulets that, due to their ugliness, represented evil. They were used in exorcism rites…. This devil-scarer… is believed to have come from a female convent and was used as a ‘weapon’ to scare away or exorcise the carnal desires of the novices and nuns.”

“The devil-scarer against female sexual desire,” Ana Gaitero, Diario de Leon, January 24, 2023

If seeking a terrifying look this Halloween, dressing as the caped crusader found in the Cathedral Museum of Leon, Spain, with a milky white stare and threatening toothless scream, would more than accomplish your goal.

Critics of American Halloween customs complain frightening ghoulish and violent costumes defile the religious origins of All Hallowed Eve, a holy day preceding All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day. But it is not difficult to see how costumes developed from traditional religious portrayals of good and evil through the centuries.

Skelton costumes have become ubiquitous. Why not seek out fresh inspiration for costumes in centuries-old religious art? One could go noble by dressing as Saint George slaying the dragon.

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Postcard from Madrid, Spain: Savoring international sabores

A Spanish postage stamp featuring green olives and the text 'D.O.P. Aceite de Madrid', highlighting the gastronomy of the region.

Above: Ceviche verde nortena with avocado ice cream at Tampu Restaurante

By now, readers know we rarely stick to the traditional foods of the country we are visiting. The main reason is that we are slow travelers; we tend to hang out in a city for a while. Bearing that in mind, here is an alphabetical listing of places we tried that you might want to experience.

Al-Mounia is probably the swellest Moroccan restaurant we’ve eaten in. An impressive amuse-bouche consisted of filo cigars of feta and lamb accompanied by a rich side of fried eggplant and roasted tomatoes. Our starter was a chicken and almond pastilla accented with powdered sugar. The lamb tajine with apricots, prunes, almonds and pine nuts that we split was absolutely luscious.

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Postcard from Leon, Spain: Regional specialties to ‘Best Burger in Spain’

A colorful Spanish postage stamp featuring a flower design made of various food items, celebrating León as the Capital of Gastronomy in 2018.

Above: A generous serving of cecina, thinly sliced cured beef, at Casa Divi.

As do most cities in Spain, Leon prides itself on its regional specialties, many involving meat. The meats of the Castilla y Leon region are indeed delicious, but sometimes we did seek out a few workarounds. The following are the spots we visited, listed in alphabetical order.

A slice of golden-brown savory pancake on a decorative blue and white floral plate.
Above: Tortilla de patatas from Bar El Gallinero.

Never had we spent such a long period in Spain without a classic egg and potato tortilla. To remedy that, Lamar researched where to find the best one in the city. To do that he had to go to a bar, Bar el Gallinero. Open only at night and about as popular a spot on the tapa circuit as you can find.

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