Category: Spain

Postcard from Zamora, Spain: Sampling regional and international dishes

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A decorative stamp from Spain featuring the word 'Zamora' with images of a wolf, traditional dancers, and a scenic view of Zamora's historic architecture.

Above: Leeks confit topped with toasted almonds at Liberten Restaurante

Zamora is a place one can dive deeply into regional dishes. Having traveled for a few weeks, I would have thought I’d tired of that. But the traditional was so well-prepared, we enjoyed it. Alphabetical restaurant mentions are below.

If you follow this blog, you probably are aware I am a stalker of zamburinas during their season. Capitol‘s preparation of the mollusks was perfect. Our generous dried fruit salad with ripe tomatoes offered wonderful contrasting flavors.

Expect to find cod everywhere, but Capitol did it well. Bacalao al horno with sweet roasted peppers was flaky and moist, with a side of the region’s famed garbanzos from Fuentesauco. Merluza, or hake, de pincho Gallega arrived enveloped in delicate pastry with a leek sauce on the side. Later, I realized Capitol prides itself in its rice dishes, so you might want to ponder that portion of its menu.

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Postcard from Pontevedra, Spain: Refueling stop for peregrinos

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zamburinas in mercado in pontevedra
A vintage Spanish postage stamp featuring a bridge over a river, with intricate architectural details and the text 'Correos' and 'España' alongside a denomination of '3 ptas'.

Above: Zamburinas for sale in Mercado de Abastos

During temperate seasons, approximately 280,000 pilgrims strike out on one of the Portuguese routes to Santiago de Campostela, passing through Pontevedra on their way. Pilgrims from around the world walk Camino de Santiago, collecting shell stamps as proof of stops and actual scallop shells as souvenirs. Long ago, it is said these shells served as scoops for food offered at the door of inns along the way.

Myths surround this symbol of Saint James, from his saintly remains being borne ashore at Campostela atop shells to miraculous legends of loved ones who drowned emerging alive from the sea covered in scallop shells. The ridges of the shell symbolize diverse pilgrimage routes, all converging upon Santiago de Compostela.

Whatever the religious symbolism, the zamburinas of the region are famed for their distinctive texture and flavor. Like eggshells for cascarones at Fiesta San Antonio, someone has to empty those shells for the pilgrims. So, we try to do our part by pursuing those delectable Galician zamburinas wherever we can, which translates to every couple of years. (Read about their red “commas” in an earlier postcard sent from Zaragoza in 2022.)

For all of those walkers in Pontevedra arriving tired and hungry yet spiritually recharged, we’ll take a detour before scallops because my alphabetical listing of restaurants dictates it.

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Postcard From Madrid, Spain: Bewitched and bedeviled

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Vintage Spanish stamp depicting a witch flying with children, inscribed with 'Quinta Sevilla Goya' and 'Correos Aéreos España'.

Above: Detail of “Allegoric Capricio,” Eugenio Lucas Velazquez (1817-1870), 1852, Lazaro Galdiano Museum.

Vispera de Todos los Santos. The hallowed eve preceding two holy days in the Catholic Church: All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day. Or, for the superstitious, La Noche de Brujas, when the witches fly.

Today, it appears Spain has succumbed to the highly contagious American-style celebration of Halloween. With all its horror-film-like bloody mess.

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