Actually, it’s already been two months since we left Valencia.
I’m not ready to stop traveling or to settle down anywhere other than San Antonio, but Valencia felt like a place we could live happily. Intimate neighborhoods, pedestrian-dominated streets, plenty of parks, beautiful architecture, nice climate, continual festivals, changing art exhibits and great food.
Having already posted about paella and our favorite restaurants, will mainly let photos do the talking for some other restaurants you might want to try if you are staying in Valencia for more than a few days.
Our neighborhood was so comfortably casual, and somehow we quickly developed almost a reverse snobbery when we ventured into tonier neighborhoods to eat. We had an excellent lunch at Seu Xerea during restaurant week, and the service was perfect. Pumpkin croquettes with blue cheese and curried meatballs were among our starters, and the Valencian rice with mussels and saffron was well executed. But, we ended up not returning because the restaurant was a bit more formal than our hood in Carmen and a bit pricier as well.
Hamburgers are everywhere in Valencia, as they are all over Europe, and Mar Cuatro Cocina Mediterranea presents an upscale opportunity to experience flavorful oxen burgers. But, again, we were out of our adopted neighborhood and the price crept up, particularly the wine, as a result. For great burgers in a more laidback setting closer to our apartment, we preferred the Martinez brothers’ popular Lamburguesa Urban Food.
For a total change of flavor, we recommend delving into Moroccan dishes at Restaurant Dukala. Both their chicken croquettes and pastilla – in this case the sweet and savory chicken mixture completely encased in flaky pastry – have loyal followers crowding into the restaurant on weekends.
Mar Cuatro ox burger
Ciao Bella house salad
Almudin apple tart
Almudin salad and potatoes bravas
This Tinto corkscrew wall art
Restaurante Yuso goat cheese salad
This Tinto caprese
Mar Cuatro cochinito pibil rollitos
Taverna d’Enric sausage and beans
Seu Xerea amuse bouche samosas
Taverna d’Enric calamar
La Forcola pizza
Restaurante Yuso piquillo peppers
Dukala chicken croquettes
Mama Racha cod
Taverna d’Enric dogfish
Taverna d’Enric pumpkin flan
Almudin
Ciao Bella
Mama Racha shrimp and vegetable fritters
Taverna d’Enric burrata salad
Seu Xerea pumpkin croquetas
Dukala vegetable couscous
Mama Racha seafood fettuccine
Dukala pastilla
La Forcola salad
Mar Cuatro strawberry gazpacho
Ciao Bella vegetable pizza
This Tinto tiraditos de pulpo
Mar Cuatro mushroom fettuccini
Lamburguesa bleu burger
Seu Xerea eggplant tahini salad
Taverna d’Enric salmorejo
Seu Xerea curried meatballs
Almudin croquettes and tuna salad
Lamburguesa hamburger with goat cheese
Here are a few more places to consider exploring if the related food photos above seem appealing:
The palace of Saint Pius V above the Turia River provides huge galleries for displaying several centuries of Spanish art, beginning with a collection of huge Gothic retablos. El Museo de Bellas Artes includes works by Velazquez, Goya, Sorolla and Valencian hometown favorites, the Ribaltas.
National Museum of Ceramics and Decorative Arts
National Museum of Ceramics and Decorative Arts
Centre Cultural La Nau, installing “Those Who Stay”
Casa de las Rocas
National Museum of Ceramics and Decorative Arts
Museo de Bellas Artes
Casa de las Rocas
Museo de Bellas Artes, detail of “Retablo of San Miguel”
Museo de Bellas Artes
Casa de las Rocas
National Museum of Ceramics and Decorative Arts
Museo de Bellas Artes, “Retablo de San Miguel Arcangel, Jaume Mateu, 1400s
Centre Cultural La Nau, installing “Those Who Stay”
Centro Cultural Bancaja, Julian Opie exhibition
Museo de Bellas Artes
National Museum of Ceramics and Decorative Arts
Museo de Bellas Artes as viewed from Turia Gardens
National Museum of Ceramics and Decorative Arts
Casa de las Rocas
Museo de Bellas Artes
Casa de las Rocas
Casa de las Rocas
Sixty days after Easter, the doors of the Corpus Christi Museum swing open so the rocas, massive wooden floats about 500 years old, can be rolled out for the annual parades celebrating the feast day. Horses haul the floats over the cobblestones, the faithful bear heavy statues atop their shoulders and gigantes, 16-foot figures representing Catholics from around the world, are part of the religious fanfare. As our timing was off for the event, we visited the carriage house, Casa de las Rocas, built in the 1400s specifically to house the floats. The parade-in-a-box leaves no spare space, but the jammed together festival props provide a sense of the ancient enduring traditions.
We also left three days before the opening of PhotOn Festival, the International Festival of Photojournalism spread mounted in several venues in Valencia. When we entered the cloisters of Centro Cultural La Nau, workers were installing large prints by Joseph Eid and Natalia Sancha for “Those Who Stay.”
While the original founding bank might have floundered when the real estate bubble burst, a palace of art remains. The spacious galleries of the Centro Cultural Bancaja are operated by a nonprofit foundation. Portraits by British artist Julian Opie were featured. We found them somewhat hypnotic despite their pared down, cartoonish lines and a peculiar flatness. Several of the large illuminated portraits of individuals featured subtle movements. The hands of a watch might move once a minute, or dot-like eyes might blink about as often as you do.