Above: Shrimp risotto at Lou Mao
Off we go through the alphabetical list of restaurants we tried in Aix-en-Provence. The “c” ones clump together first – ones that would make a Happy Cow vegetarian list – but simply scroll down farther if you are vegetable-averse. Meat and fish are much easier to find than vegetable dishes when eating out.
The tomato Saint Marcelin salad and an ample vegetarian mezze bowl at the pleasant Cafe du Temps helped reward our quest for vegetables. The seitan burger was not to our tastes; we prefer veggie burgers that taste more like vegetables.
Above: Cafe du Temps
Ethiopian worked well for us. Chez Ama provided a Beyanetou vegetable platter for two, and it offers a meat-centric one as well. We followed ours up with a full-honeyed baklava for dessert.
Above: Chez Ama
Colde’s patio occupies a triangular space at the juncture of several pedestrian streets, making it a likely spot for locals to meet. We managed to snag a table for a salad stop – one falafel and one Thai crispy chicken.
Above: Colde
The waiter at Le Cintra raised his eyebrows a bit when we both ordered a plate of moules frites. We should have taken his cue. There was no way we could finish two portions of plump mussels and crisp fries. Le Cintra’s the type of large brasserie we tend not to like, but the mussels were exactly what we craved.
Above: Moules frites at Le Cintra
A nice char marked a Neapolitan-style crust for pizza at Le Clan des Mamma Valeria. Cipollina onion confit added its intense sweet balsamic flavor atop an arugula salad with mozzarella di bufalo, All finished off with a nice affogato.
Above: Le Clan des Mamma Valeria
Le Forbin was in a semi-touristy area, so we were pleasantly surprised with the output of the kitchen. A generous amount of fresh red tuna was presented with a Calabrian-sauced linguini, and tender pulpo nestled comfortably in a dense cloud of mashed and whole chickpeas.
Above: Le Forbin
French families packed the house and large patio of Le Riad one weekend. The only complaint about our spicy chickpea amuse-bouche was we wanted more. Although we certainly ended up with more than enough food on the table.
The outstanding starter was a beautiful pastilla filled with shredded chicken, caramelized onion and almonds and topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Substantial enough to serve as a main course, the pastilla arrived with a salad, which could eliminate any need for the Morrocan salad plate. Kefta meatballs seemed boring post-pastilla, but an enormous bowl of vegetables for the couscous was wonderful.
Above: Le Riad
Les Galinas is an intimate, crowded neighborhood spot that we loved. Aigo-sau, a Provencal style bouillabaisse, took on a complexity when the accompanying rouille, a saffron and pepper combination, was stirred into it. Perfectly blanched fresh asparagus went well with an endive and radicchio salad. Roasted leeks were fantastic, and pesto pasta rivaled that of Italy.
Above: Les Galinas
Shaded by a tree on a laidback patio barely claimed from the adjacent sidewalks, it’s easy to be surprised by the sophisticated dishes emerging from the kitchen of Lou Mao. A cold lush bowl of pea gazpacho was accented with croutons and slivers of crisp asparagus. A rosette of summer squash marinated in aguachile was surrounded by a squash and fresh herb puree.
Roasted fennel and its puree paired with caramelized grilled octopus. The major flamethrower below was used to heat anise poured over a creamy risotto with grilled tiger shrimp and asparagus – the featured image at the top of this post. Loved the way Lou Mao took advantage of the seasonally fresh asparagus available in the market. The espresso and dessert trio was designed to appeal to the indecisive, as in me.
Above: Lou Mao
A Japanese break at Naruto was a change of pace. Seafood nigiri worked for us better than our major sized yakitori platter. Unlike some Japanese restaurants, one definitely doesn’t emerge from Naruto hungry.
Above: Naruto
Hope these photos help you in your travels. Bon appetit!
Postcards from Barton Springs 