Postcard from Palermo, Sicily: Architectural and actual gems of Monreale

Above: Monreale offers a sweeping view of Palermo from the mountains to the sea.

The immensity of the 12th-century Benedictine cloisters adjacent to the Cathedral of Monreale is best grasped when viewed from the church roof. Walking around the monastery’s inner courtyard, graceful arches supported by pairs of delicate columns evoke a sense of intimacy.

The craftsmen erecting these did not apply a cookie-cutter approach to their construction process. I don’t believe the figurative designs of a single capital is repeated, and many columns boast colorful mosaic inlays. Perhaps these were meant to entertain restless monks not always keen on completing the requisite number of daily contemplations.

Above: Allegorical and Biblical tales along with a Noah’s ark-full of animals adorn capitals found in the cloisters adjacent to the Cathedral.

Restaurants catering to busloads of tourists dominate the streets of Monreale so Ciambra was an unexpected treasure. A cone of fried seafood served as a perfect starter. The riso was studded with red shrimp topped with crisped strips of speck, and the squid ink ravioli was as flavorful as handsome. Burnt-sugar caramel with nutty croccante glazed a white chocolate semifreddo for dessert.

Above: Ciambra

Fortified, these tourists were ready to view the treasures – reliquaries and jewels – of the Archbishop’s Palace, the Diocesan Museum.

Above: Treasures housed in the Diocesan Museum of Monreale