So many choices for early morning walks: head downtown and loop around the bend or continue north to the locks and dam. Since this spring and early summer, I have been increasingly drawn southward by the wildflowers blooming along the river’s banks and the water birds hunting for their breakfast of crawdads. After dining, they always neatly arrange a pair of leftover claws on the sidewalk as evidence of their fishing prowess.
I like to walk about 70 minutes or so, and Eagleland is not quite long enough. If you are familiar with the area, you probably know where I head after passing under the railroad tracks….
I’m never the first one. Almost as soon as the work crew leaves in the afternoon, southsiders eager for their stretch of the River Improvements Project to be finished begin to mash down the flimsy orange webbing meant to discourage access to the new pathways skirting the river’s edge. By the time I arrive in the morning, it and its “keep out” message are flat on the ground, easily ignored.
- Mark Schlesinger’s painted rocks on a crenulated footbridge (an architectural reference to? the bizarre “castle” near Mission San Jose?)
- Anne Wallace’s river fauna etched in stone on another footbridge
- and a Carlos Cortes trabajo rustico bench funded by The Dickson Allen Foundation.
But, until now, no one has uttered a peep about the largest environmental art installation. The mainstream media certainly has missed this boat. Supposedly, this artist is currently focused on gaining permission to suspend fabric over almost six miles of the Arkansas River, but the following photograph stands as evidence he stealthily slipped into San Antonio to execute a piece reminiscent of his earlier works. According to the website of the artist and his late wife:
The last time an idea for a wrapping came out of their heads and hearts was in 1975, when they had the idea of wrapping the Pont Neuf in Paris, and then it took them ten years to get the permits.
Remember, you saw it here first, and you should be so grateful to Postcards from San Antonio for giving you the inside scoop that you will not fail to bail Gayle out of jail!
Update on August 28: Access to the first phase of the Mission Reach is delayed by typical gardening woes – weeds growing like weeds. Hopefully the city will use part of this time to round up the stray dogs hanging around entrances to the sidewalks as though thugs hired to guard the paths from impatient pedestrians, runners and bikers prematurely breaching the flimsy orange netting.
Update on August 31: Elaine Wolff slipped in to post photos of Anne Wallace’s works in progress.
Update on September 4: Not sure the artwork is finished yet, but inspected Mark Schlesinger’s painted crowns on the crenulated footbridge this morning. It brought back memories of sitting on the floor with a luxurious new box of 64 Crayolas confronted with a coloring book seemingly demanding monochrome castle walls. Nothing to do but rebel and color each crenulation a different shade plucked from the box. Same sort of satisfaction as giving a Barbie doll a dramatic haircut, except no one would punish me afterwards.
According to the website of the San Antonio River Foundation:
Mark Schlesinger adds color, texture and elements of surprise to his footbridge project, “Up On the On.” Up On The On integrates a repeating pattern of painted, textured rocks alongside natural river rocks. Schlesinger uses the same polymer stucco material he used in the Museum Reach and seeks to combine the urban with the natural. “When, for instance, this urban bridge begins to emerge from a natural flood, it will do so with a colorful, visual softness.” That softness, Schlesinger says, makes a strong statement, without overpowering the forces of nature. Several of the blocks will also glow softly at night.
I found myself wishing his gaudy colors had been applied instead to the giant support columns under the interstate, distracting us like Donald Lipski’s “F.I.S.H.” The thundering echo of cars and trucks zooming overhead also made me wish it were possible to move Bill Fontana’s “Sonic Passages” there as well.
In both the Museum and Mission reaches, Schlesinger’s work leaves me cold, but, of course, a major role of public art is to stimulate thinking, reaction and conversation. And his work achieves that or I would not be blogging about it.
Update on September 12: Amazed at how many people of all ages were out on the Mission Reach at dusk and after dark on Saturday night – many on bicycles. People are ready, even though the plantings are not, even though the banks seem moonscaped more than landscaped.
We were down there because we finally got around to experiencing G&G Mobile Bistro, tracking them southward to 116 West Mitchell, tucked away behind Boneshakers. Parking is limited, but, as half the customers seemed to arrive by bike, that presents no real problem.
Shaded by trees, the new location offers a sweeping view of the river’s voluptuous new curves in the Mission Reach. Once we have something growing, this could actually turn into the prettiest spot along the river’s course through Bexar County and is ideally positioned to catch the evening breeze from the south.
We went out back and ordered the five featured courses for $14, no choices to make. What’s on the blackboard is what you get. Then we went in to grab a not great, but very inexpensive, bottle of wine from Boneshakers, which boasts a pretty impressive beer selection.
Arriving at 7:45, just in time to secure prime seating, seating in short supply by 8:15. Don’t know how they possibly keep track of who ordered one item, three courses or all five, but, somehow our little cardboard cradles came out one at a time, each one delivered to our table precisely as we finished the course before.
The first course featured a mound of caramelized onion on brie served with croutons and slices of apples. The apples had a dose of coarsely ground pepper on them, which I wouldn’t have thought would work. It did. Next was a plastic glass filled with an acorn squash soup, bravely made without ladling in too-rich cream and unexpectedly spiked with a flavor burst or two from chunks of lime pulp. Then we were served a great little salad, followed by pork flavored with balsamic perched on perfectly herbed vegetables. Everything tasted so fresh and healthy. The only course we didn’t care for was the dessert, a flan-cake.
My husband kept repeating G&G is his new favorite restaurant. It’s the type of place you want to tell everyone about on the one hand, but realize the danger that it will soon be too popular for you to get that prime seat. Shhh….
Hope they let us return. Occurred to me on the drive home we committed a food truck faux pas. We completely forgot to return our wine and water glasses to Boneshakers, rudely left them on the table under the trees. We’ll be better next time.
Note Added on September 17: David McLemore’s take on the Mission Reach
Note Added on October 23:
After many a morning walk, I am adjusting to Mark Schlesinger’s Crayola treatment of the crenulated footbridge, but not on any sophisticated terms. I have decided to view this as a magical place for families to weave their own river-based fairy tales, to invent stories of mischievous San Antonio-bred trolls or gnomes. Or maybe they are sprites from other parts of the country, hobos who hopped off the train to dwell under the bridge. Or maybe it’s a spot to ponder philosophically with Winnie the Pooh:
Sometimes, if you stand on the bottom rail of a bridge and lean over to watch the river slipping slowly away beneath you, you will suddenly know everything there is to be known.
The best news is that soon we southsiders will no longer have to be “illegal trespassers” on this portion of the Mission Reach. While this stretch of the river will not officially open to the public until late November, the San Antonio River Authority’s spokesperson seems a little harsh on those of us who are eager to walk the river’s banks:
“We know people are already out there,” said Steven Schauer, a spokesman for the river authority. “Maybe we can open so people are no longer breaking the law when they are trespassing right now.”
November 16 Update: The “Christo” is now unwrapped; looked better wrapped. And the River Authority posts photos on its website showing progress along the Mission Reach.
December 30 Update: Now that the Power Plant is unwrapped, Christo is concentrating on the Arkansas River project.