Belgium: Art Nouveau and its ivory elephant in the room

art nouveau details on 1901 maison saint-cyr brussels
Illustration of a colorful building with a unique boat feature, designed for a Belgian postage stamp, labeled with 'BELGIE' and 'F. SMET-VERHAS antwerpen-ans.'

Above: Ornate art nouveau details on the 1901 facade of Maison Saint-Cyr designed by architect Gustave Strauven (1878-1919) in Brussels.

I do not want to miss a good chance of getting us a slice of this magnificent African cake.”

King Leopold II of Belgium (1835-1909)

With its sensual plant motifs and curvilinear features softening the severity of brick buildings, for me, Art Nouveau always represented a bit of a whimsical revolt against the expected. The elevation of crafts in design refreshing after classical rigidity, similar to women beginning to abandon their whalebone corsets. Basically, encountering art nouveau always makes me smile. And Belgium is regarded as its birthplace.

In 1884, the silver-tongued King Leopold II (1835-1909) managed to convince the leaders of a 14-nation conference in Berlin that he, individually, should be trusted to manage the civilization of the Congo and to prevent expansion of the slave trade. Maybe it was simply a matter of semantics: slave trade is not the same as forced labor?

Despite bestowing the name for the vast territory of The Congo Free State, King Leopold allowed his new fiefdom no free trade. All exports from the Congo were required to pass through his trading companies. Essentially, a personal monopoly controlling incredible resources, and, perfect timing, with rubber suddenly in high demand.

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A season when cemeteries reunite the living and the dead

Above: No rearranging of the surroundings would be needed to film a horror movie in the dark and cavernous Cimitero delle Fontanelle in Naples, Italy.

It’s not surprising that a writer who would include Haunting the Graveyard as part of a book title is drawn to cemeteries. A few random headstones can reveal stories about individuals and entire communities.

Someone in the family demonstrates great patience with sating my taphophilia wherever we travel. Naturally, All Saints Day and All Souls Day are among my favorite times to do so. Posts in this blog are filled with the resulting photos, and the links below will take you to a few from our past travels. So many graveyards from which to choose….

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Walking among the dead seeking hints about our past

Let us endeavor to live our lives that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry.

Words of Mark Twain engraved on the memorial for Bertie Lee Hall (1926-1999), member of the Texas House of Representatives, storyteller and writer

Getting to the cemetery first is not a race you normally want to win, but, when General Edward Burleson (1798-1851) died, leaders of the Republic of Texas realized they were caught flat-footed as to where to honor their heroes. Burleson had served with Ben Milam in San Antonio; fought at San Jacinto; and served as Vice President of the young republic. House member Andrew Jackson Hamilton (1815-1875) offered his own property in East Austin, with the state assuming responsibility for the burial ground in 1854.

Other prominent figures from the early days of the Republic of Texas gradually were reinterred in places of honor in the Texas State Cemetery. The remains of Stephen F. Austin (1793-1836) were moved from Peach Point to a commanding spot by Governor Oscar Colquitt in 1910. The statue of him was made by San Antonio sculptor Pompeo Coppini (1870-1957), creator of the currently controversial Cenotaph in Alamo Plaza.

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