These final food photos from our stay in Rome offer a few more glimpses into the confusing multitude of choices available when seeking sustenance in a city of 2.87-million people. TripAdvisor lists close to 6,000 establishments classified as “Italian Restaurants” in Rome.
Ristorante Virginiae, panna cotta
Poldo e Gianna, pear poached in red wine
Ombre Rosse in Trastevere, salad with pears, orange, walnuts and gorgonzola
Pasta e Vino Come na Vorta, coda alla vaccinara
Popolo Caffe grilled vegetables
Poldo e Gianna, vegetable tempura
Enoteca Buccone, artichoke lasagna
Enoteca Buccone, cold appetizer plate
L’Asino d’Oro, asparagus lasagna
Ristorante Al Borghetto dark chocolate shell filled with mousee atop caramelized banana
Enoteca Buccone, tagliatelle with tomatoes
Pizza Rustica
Knick Knack Yoda, hamburger with eggplant, spinach and fig jam
Ristorante Virginiae, caprese
Poldo e Gianna, rigatoni with fried artichoke
Poldo e Gianna, veal saltimbocca
L’Asino d’Oro, dessert trio
Ristorante Al Borghetto, ceviche
Ristorante Virginiae, pasta amatrice
Ombre Rosse in Trastevere, pesto, mortadello and pistachio pinca
Ristorante Virginiae, apple crumble
Ristorante Virginiae, pasta alla grigia
Poldo e Gianna, chicken
Ombre Rosse in Trastevere, brie and proscuitto pinca
Popolo Caffe, breseola salad
Ristorante Al Borghetto, branzino atop cauliflower puree
Ristorante Al Borghetto grilled calamari
Ristorante Al Borghetto, risotto with oxtail
These are merely listed alphabetically:
Enoteca Buccone – Tables are tucked among well-stocked shelves of wine from which you can select or ask for recommendations without restaurant mark-ups in price.
Knick Knack Yoda – Casual, funky spot with great burger layered with grilled eggplant, spinach and fig jam, but avoid ordering the absurdly expensive bottle of wine with it. Stick with beer.
L’Asino d’Oro – Best part, selecting trio of desserts to share.
Ombre Rosse in Trastevere – Always bustling spot for pizza and salad (spinach and walnut soup featured at top).
Pasta e Vino Come na Vorta – I am bratty about ordering at the counter and being served on paper plates with plastic utensils, but the Mister would have returned often for the rich flavors of coda alla vaccinara, oxtail stew.
Pizza Rustica – One of Rome’s most heralded pizza-by-the-slice spots.
Poldo e Gianna Osteria – Best part of the meal was the pear poached in red wine for dessert.
Popolo Caffe – Crowded, unpretentious neighborhood restaurant with basic good Italian food.
Ristorante Al Borghetto -The risotto with oxtail was among the best risotto dishes ever, but countered by the ridiculously parsimonious presentation of not-inexpensive ceviche.
No time to pause for even the slightest genuflection in this lightening-fast tour of more than a dozen churches in Rome.
You might think this blog has dragged you through every single church in Rome, but, no. One could spend a year visiting a church a day without exhausting that supply. Rome is divided into 339 parishes, and there are close to 70 basilicas within the city. Probably all are worth ducking into for a visit.
But, mercifully, our tour stops here.
On this whiplash final lap, am going to point out two major relics of the type upon which most American Catholics never lay their eyes. The reliquary above is said to contain “the first foot to be entered in the tomb of Christ,” that of Mary Magdalene enshrined in the Basilica di San Giovanni dei Fiorentini. And the other is a portion of the head of Saint John the Baptist housed in a chapel in the Basilica di San Silvestro in Capite.
Chiesa Nazionale Argentina
Basilica di San Vitale
Chiesa del Gesu
Eglise Saint Louis des Francais
Basilica di Santi Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso
Basilica di Santi Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso
Basilica di San Silvestro in Capite
Basilica di Santi Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso
Basilica di Sant’Agostino
Basilica di San Silvestro in Capite, bell tower
Basilica di Sant’Agostino
Basilica di San Giovanni Battista dei Fiorentini, Mary Magdalene’s foot
Basilica di San Lorenzo in Lucina
Basilica di Santi Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso
Basilica di Santa Pudenziana
Basilica di Santi Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso
Basilica di Santi Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso
Basilica di San Lorenzo in Lucina
Basilica di Santi Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso
reliquaries
Basilica di San Giovanni Battista dei Fiorentini, San Antonio de Padua
Chiesa del Gesu
Basilica del Sacro Curore di Gesu
Chiesa dei Jesus Sant’Agatha
Chiesa del Gesu
Basilica di San Silvestro in Capite, reliquary containing part of the head of Saint John the Baptist
Basilica di San Lorenzo in Damasco
Basilica di Sant’Agostino
Basilica di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa Nazionale Argentina
Basilica di Santa Pudenziana wedding
Basilica di San Vitale
Basilica di San Lorenzo in Lucina
I wonder whether anyone ever has developed a scavenger hunt for spying saintly parts tucked away in nooks and crannies in churches in Rome.
A shortcut to encountering a massive number of bones, if one is so inclined, is to seek out the Capuchin Museum and Crypt tucked under Santa Maria della Concezione. The church was commissioned in 1626 by Pope Urban VIII (to whom you were introduced during my “wild things” museum meltdown) in recognition of a relative who was a Capuchin friar, Cardinal Antonio Barberini. Cardinal Barberini had the remains of thousands of his Capuchin brethren transferred to the crypt, which provided monks with a creative side unusual materials for their assemblages.
The museum offers a rather dry history of the Capuchin order, somewhat interesting if not for the macabre magnetic pull of the crypt you know lies on the far side. I doubt much has changed there since Mark Twain’s visit long ago, so I will let him describe the interior:
There were six divisions in the apartment, and each division was ornamented with a style of decoration peculiar to itself – and these decorations were in every instance formed of human bones! There were shapely arches, built wholly of thigh bones; there were startling pyramids, built wholly of grinning skulls; there were quaint architectural structures of various kinds, built of shin bones and the bones of the arm; on the wall were elaborate frescoes, whose curving vines were made of knotted human vertebrae; whose delicate tendrils were made of sinews and tendons; whose flowers were formed of knee-caps and toe-nails. Every lasting portion of the human frame was represented in these intricate designs (they were by Michael Angelo, I think,) and there was a careful finish about the work, and an attention to details that betrayed the artist’s love of his labors as well as his schooled ability. I asked the good-natured monk who accompanied us, who did this? And he said, “We did it” – meaning himself and his brethren upstairs. I could see that the old friar took a high pride in his curious show. We made him talkative by exhibiting an interest we never betrayed to guides.
“Who were these people?”
“We – upstairs – Monks of the Capuchin order – my brethren.”
“How many departed monks were required to upholster these six parlors?”
“These are the bones of four thousand.”
“It took a long time to get enough?”
“Many, many centuries.”
“Their different parts are well separated – skulls in one room, legs in another, ribs in another – there would be stirring times here for a while if the last trump should blow. Some of the brethren might get hold of the wrong leg, in the confusion, and the wrong skull, and find themselves limping, and looking through eyes that were wider apart or closer together than they were used to. You can not tell any of these parties apart, I suppose?”
“Oh, yes, I know many of them.”
He put his finger on a skull. “This was Brother Anselmo – dead three hundred years – a good man.”
The Innocents Abroad, Mark Twain, 1869
And, as this is a whiplash tour of churches, our friend Chris’ seconds-long forbidden video recording of the interior seems appropriate.
I asked the monk if all the brethren upstairs expected to be put in this place when they died. He answered quietly:
“We must all lie here at last.”
The Innocents Abroad, Mark Twain, 1869
Catholicism remains a religion of many mysteries, even for someone who was raised as one, particularly during the years when mass still was said in Latin. Like, when near the end of the service, the priest would talk about Nabisco crackers: “Dominus vobiscum.” “The Lord be with you,” lost in translation between the priest’s lips and my ears.
Glancing down the street from the corner, one would not be at all tempted to turn down Mantova street in Rome. We only found it because we wanted a lunch spot in semi-close proximity to MACRO and noticed a Berbere Pizzeria was nearby.
We previously had become acquainted with a Berbere in Bologna. The pizzerias are known for the slow-rise, highly “digestible” (We have never understood this foodie-ism issue.) crust topped with fresh local ingredients. The zucchini pie did not disappoint.
Eating outside, we noticed locals going into two establishments on the other side of the street. Looking online for reviews of them later, we found the super-majority of the contributors posting in Italian. Via Montova is not in the tourist zone.
Osteria Via Mantova octopus
Osteria Via Mantova chesnut gnocchi with lamb ragout
Il Salento in una Stanza fish soup
Berbere Pizzeria zucchini pizza
Osteria Via Mantova pasta with Sicilian tuna
Il Salento in una Stanza eggplant balls
Il Salento in una Stanza fried tagliatelli with mussels
Il Salento in una Stanza amuse-bouche of fried bread
The chef at Il Salento in una Stanza Vini e Cucina seduced us quickly with two amuse bouche offerings – cute little puffballs of fried bread and the best fried anchovies we had on the trip. I wanted to cancel my order and beg for a plateful of anchovies. The meatless-balls in a red pepper sauce were composed of eggplant, and the photo of the fish soup shows its amazing bounty. Looking back at the photos, I’m wishing we had made it back for another lunch.
The pasta with Sicilian tuna at Osteria Via Mantova was a refreshingly different seafood dish, and the flavorful chestnut gnocchi with a hearty lamb ragout was the only such offering we encountered.
And to think we ate it all on Mantova Street. The rewards from venturing away from the crowds often are savory.