Postcard from Lyon, France: Where good food regarded as ‘a birthright’

Above: Polenta and asparagus buried below a mound of fresh leafy ‘weeds’ at Les Mauvaises Herbes

Hope you’re ready to feast your eyes again because here comes part two of our restaurant experiences in the capitol of French gastronomy.

The pig in the name Le Cochon qui Boit intimidated me at first. I knew I wasn’t ready for a menu that goes all whole-hog-centric, but this is a drinking pig. That sounded more up my alley. Once inside gazing at the daily menu, I realized one even could graze all-vegetable there if desired. A red cabbage and hazelnut salad as an amuse bouche quickly confirmed the kitchen’s talents in that arena.

An endive salad was topped with ultra-thin slices of coppa ham and almonds, while tender cauliflower was paired with olives and fresh chervil. Shredded parmesan hides a serving of beet ravioli, and that shiny beige mound that appears to be a dessert is actually whipped up roasted parsnips, as good as a dessert. The rectangular dark wedge is Cochon Noir Gascon, meat of the highly prized black pig of the high Pyranees. This tender pork arrived with wedges of panisse and spinach.

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Postcard from Oaxaca: Spots to savor and maybe crunch a few bugs

Above: El Amu created a fresh-from-the-farm atmosphere in town.

Spotlighting restaurants in alphabetical order sometimes launches into non-native cuisines; Boulenc is an example of this.

The French-style bakery never fails to impress, and it’s a go-to spot to snag a jar of just-peanuts crunchy mantequilla de cacahuete. Salads are sharable, and the fired-up pizza oven turns out pies we crave after a week of more traditional dishes. Plus, a nice affogato – gelato drowned in espresso – for dessert. The restaurant also has a cafe in the Jalatlaco neighborhood, Becino, that we did not visit.

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Postcard from Bilbao, Spain: Pintxos to pasteles

Above: Always crowded at pintxo-time in the iconic Cafe Iruna

Starting our ABC-listing of food experiences in Bilbao with Al Margen. Yes, a photograph should be worth well more than 1,000 words, but don’t let these photos mislead you. The kitchen at Al Margen turns out amazing dishes from amuse-bouche through dessert.

Even George H.W. Bush could not help but love the broccoli. Singed on the outside with spring onions and a sauce brightened with lime zest, this broccoli could star as a main course. Heirloom tomatoes were flamed before taking a cool bath in a pickled peach and tangerine sauce.

Pomegranate seeds added a colorful touch to eggplant, while leeks and crisped pork belly flavored pan-seared gnocchi. For dessert, Malta cake was topped with marscapone and pistachios, and Al Margen’s unexpected take on tres leches cake was crowned with grated Parmesan. Not inexpensive, yet all delicious. Although the menu changes seasonally, regulars insist the broccoli be ever-present.

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