Postcard from Oaxaca, Mexico: Restaurant Alphabet Vol. II from Le to Tacos

Above: Guava mole with shrimp and battered cauliflower at Levadura de Olla

Thalía Barrios Garcia is young, 27 years old, yet she has worked her way from a small Oaxacan village to own two widely acclaimed restaurants in the historic center of the state capital. One, Cocina de Humo, is intimate, providing a chance to observe traditional methods of cooking, but you need to make a reservation in advance. So we tried her Levadura de Olla instead.

Tomatoes. The gorgeous display of heirloom tomatoes immediately announces produce is important here. And a woman kept busy flipping fresh tortillas you know are made the ancient way, from dried corn boiled down with ash, nixtamal.

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Postcards from Oaxaca, Mexico: Restaurants from the letter A through Las

Above: Zandunga chicken at La Biznaga

We’ve been visiting Oaxaca off and on for several decades, yet never tire of the food. For some arbitrary reason, or maybe so as not to appear arbitrary, I’m going to offer up a menu of restaurants in alphabetical order spread over two volumes.

Our first rental on this trip was next door to a new rooftop restaurant and bar that packed people in at night. We went up for lunch though and found Agavero Cocina y Bebidas a rather peaceful outdoor space.

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Postcard from Oaxaca, Mexico: Food with a Castilian accent

Above: Camarones Gaditanos at El Olivo Gastrobar

With almost every “postcard” from our 2022 trip to Spain delivered, these photos should smooth your, and our, transition to Mexico.

Relatively new on the scene is Casa Celia on Quintana Roo. Although Mexican, the chef spent ten years in restaurants in Barcelona. The menu changes weekly, with paella served most weekends and always options for vegetarians.

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