Belgium: Art Nouveau and its ivory elephant in the room

art nouveau details on 1901 maison saint-cyr brussels
Illustration of a colorful building with a unique boat feature, designed for a Belgian postage stamp, labeled with 'BELGIE' and 'F. SMET-VERHAS antwerpen-ans.'

Above: Ornate art nouveau details on the 1901 facade of Maison Saint-Cyr designed by architect Gustave Strauven (1878-1919) in Brussels.

I do not want to miss a good chance of getting us a slice of this magnificent African cake.”

King Leopold II of Belgium (1835-1909)

With its sensual plant motifs and curvilinear features softening the severity of brick buildings, for me, Art Nouveau always represented a bit of a whimsical revolt against the expected. The elevation of crafts in design refreshing after classical rigidity, similar to women beginning to abandon their whalebone corsets. Basically, encountering art nouveau always makes me smile. And Belgium is regarded as its birthplace.

In 1884, the silver-tongued King Leopold II (1835-1909) managed to convince the leaders of a 14-nation conference in Berlin that he, individually, should be trusted to manage the civilization of the Congo and to prevent expansion of the slave trade. Maybe it was simply a matter of semantics: slave trade is not the same as forced labor?

Despite bestowing the name for the vast territory of The Congo Free State, King Leopold allowed his new fiefdom no free trade. All exports from the Congo were required to pass through his trading companies. Essentially, a personal monopoly controlling incredible resources, and, perfect timing, with rubber suddenly in high demand.

Continue reading “Belgium: Art Nouveau and its ivory elephant in the room” →

Postcard from Bilbao, Spain: Urban vitality conquers industrial detritus

A vintage postage stamp from Spain featuring a matador facing a bull, with the text '70 CTS' and 'ESPAÑA CORREOS' inscribed.

Above: Dancers swirl around Plaza de Santiago in Casco Viejo on a fall night.

There is no nightlife in Spain. They stay up late but they get up late. That is not nightlife. That is delaying the day.”

Ernest Hemingway

Better leave it to Ernest Hemingway to explain Spain’s nocturnal habits, for I rarely witness late nights outside our home in South Austin or apartments when we travel. That’s why it was particularly pleasurable for the Basques of Bilbao to bring the party to a plaza directly under our balcony. If they did indeed stay up late, they were polite enough to pack up the accordions and finish the celebration elsewhere.

Below represents a random unpacking of snapshots from our stay in Bilbao – a city resuscitated by the reclamation of its riverfront from its industrial past and a bold, massive investment in art.

A detailed wooden sculpture of a bearded figure representing God, with one hand raised and the other holding a globe and a cross, adorned with intricate carvings.
Continue reading “Postcard from Bilbao, Spain: Urban vitality conquers industrial detritus” →

Postcard from Toulouse, France: Pull out your walking shoes

Toulouse managed to captivate our attention in a way that we ended up with an abundance of snapshots taken from her pedestrian-friendly streets.

Continue reading “Postcard from Toulouse, France: Pull out your walking shoes” →