Postcard from Marseille, France: Taming ‘les tags sauvages’

Securing affordable housing leads artists to seek out urban neighborhoods sometimes reputed to be gritty. As noted in an earlier post featuring street art in Marseille, the creative vitality they bring is transformative. Quirky shops pop up. Inventive chefs open outlier cafes and restaurants with tables spilling out onto the sidewalks.

Walls once covered with threatening-looking, unauthorized tagging get reupholstered with a layer of more artistic grafitti. As a result, two of the most fun neighborhoods to explore in Marseille are Le Panier and Cours Julien, both uphill from the harbor.

Surrendering to urban artists, Marseille embraced them in 2018. The government launched an ambitious partnership with a group of artists, Massilia Graffiti, organizers of a successful street art festival in the Cours Julien area. Forty-thousand euros of public funds were invested in an innovative program to combat les tags sauvages, or wild tagging.

Continue reading “Postcard from Marseille, France: Taming ‘les tags sauvages’”

Postcard from Marseille, France: ‘Bad Guys’ transform the streets

Above: Street art by Poasson on Rue de Mauvestis, or Bad Guys Street

Bad Guys Street? What were we doing there in a city with as tough a hangover reputation as Marseille?

Reason Number 1: Marseille has evolved. Yes, it still has plenty of gritty urban neighborhoods, but what major urban area does not?

Reason Number 2: We followed the street art. Artists tend to lead the way in transforming dodgy neighborhoods into trendy ones nurturing funky shops and welcoming creative chefs seeking fresh starts distant from tourist zones.

Continue reading “Postcard from Marseille, France: ‘Bad Guys’ transform the streets”

Postcard from Oaxaca, Mexico: Always welcome more candles on your cake

This woman’s anxious expression on a wall in Oaxaca is a bit frightening to have surfaced close to my birthday. I’ve decided to consider her as successfully defiant.

Some years are harder than others. The image below of the late Vicente Fernandez did not weather well this past year.

But walls in Oaxaca are everchanging canvases for artists, new discoveries encountered with every walk. As prints peel and fade, other layers soon are plastered over them – palimpsests of life.

Continue reading “Postcard from Oaxaca, Mexico: Always welcome more candles on your cake”