Postcard from Valencia, Spain: A merry May Day to you

Monday, May 1. Another weekday holiday in Valencia. By the time we leave after four weeks here, I think there will have been five.

Strolling around, the time off obviously means different things to Valencians. There was a rather loud but small group participating in a labor march we encountered. The original point of the holiday.

Their message was lost in translation on the way to me, though. Unsure whether their point was workers are treated like animals; pets are as well-regarded as people; or more of a PETA protest for protecting animals because they are equal to people. Most Valencians they passed appeared unbothered and more focused on their beer or gin tonics in the outdoor cafes than politics.

But celebrations weren’t restricted to that. Turia Park was filled with bicyclists, joggers, walkers, picnickers and people simply sprawled flat-out on the ground to absorb the sun.

In the midst of our walk in the park we encountered an exuberant admission-free festival spotlighting Andalusian culture – with dancers jumping on stages ranging from skilled flamenco practitioners to enthusiastic never-tried-it-before volunteers. All seemed welcomed equally by imbibing attendees.

And then, cutting back through town, we came across some of the more sedate regionally costumed families who have been parading formally through town for the past week or so for different events.

All wonderful encounters for us idly ambling along the streets on a magnificent sunny afternoon.

Postcard from Valencia, Spain: Why women love Santa Claus

In Spain, women seeking intercession from Saint Nicholas (270-343) traditionally walk from their homes to the nearest church dedicated to him to pray on three consecutive Mondays. If that distance is too great or their health too frail, any church with a statue of him can be substituted. In Italy, young women yearning to find appropriate mates leave three coins for Saint Nicholas in the donation box.

Their devotion stems back to an early generous action by the young man who would become a bishop and saint. Nicholas was born into an affluent family in Turkey in the second half of the second century, but his parents died of the plague. Their death left him alone, but wealthy.

As the story goes, a man living nearby had three daughters of marriageable age (an age now categorized as well underage). As he lacked funds for dowries to attract suitable suitors, prostitution appeared their destiny. Upon hearing the man planned to launch his daughters’ careers, Nicholas anonymously left a cloth bundle of gold on three consecutive nights at the man’s house – sparing the young women (children, if you prefer) from subjection to their father’s plans for their future.

He is valued as the patron saint of many causes, children being the major one. Possibly his role as protector of children stems from the above story and also a gruesome tale of a child he saved from a crazed butcher. It’s not hard to imagine how the bearded image and his sly deposit of sacks bearing gifts evolved into American traditions relating to, as we affectionately call him, Santa Claus.

Saint Nicholas is the patron saint of brewers, perhaps because he took grain from the rich to give to the poor. Maybe grain needed to make beer? Sailors prayed to entrust him to guide their ships through storms, after Nicholas was said to have brought a sailor back to life after the man fell from the mast of his ship in rough seas.

The purported powers of Saint Nicholas’ remains are so potent, daring military maneuvers have been made to obtain them. After the Turks took over Myra, sailors from Bari, Italy, staged a raid to seize his relics in 1087. Venetians later did the same to capture the few shards they had left behind. In Bari, the bones are said to exude myrrh, which smells like rosewater and has miraculous capabilities. The precious myrrh is collected in a flask annually on his day, December 8, and small vials are available for purchase.

Residents of Valencia are fortunate to have a major church dedicated to Saint Nicholas, and tourists are not allowed to interrupt the Monday visitations by the faithful praying for his assistance. The church was founded in the 13th century, but the interior was heavily baroqued up at the end of the 15th.

The church also houses an important statue of Saint Jude Thaddeus, the patron saint of lost causes, who attracts crowds seeking his intercession as well. Many of the Monday women are known to pause to pray to both, as some of their problems involve men who might be regarded as lost causes.

Postcard from Valencia, Spain: A temple to food

Whether a recipe requires fresh sea urchins (still alive), horse meat or an enormous 25-euro ostrich egg, the Mercat Central in Valencia has almost anything your culinary heart could imagine artfully displayed under a soaring dome designed to inspire.

The lively market features the wares of some 300 vendors, many willing to deliver directly to your home. But that would definitely spoil the stimulating sensory experience of wandering amongst the stalls.

This stunning temple of food replaced an earlier “New Market,” which dated from 1839. A design competition was held for a model modern market in 1910, with the new-new temple to food finally opening in January of 1928.