Postcard from Lyon, France: Where good food regarded as ‘a birthright’

Above: Polenta and asparagus buried below a mound of fresh leafy ‘weeds’ at Les Mauvaises Herbes

Hope you’re ready to feast your eyes again because here comes part two of our restaurant experiences in the capitol of French gastronomy.

The pig in the name Le Cochon qui Boit intimidated me at first. I knew I wasn’t ready for a menu that goes all whole-hog-centric, but this is a drinking pig. That sounded more up my alley. Once inside gazing at the daily menu, I realized one even could graze all-vegetable there if desired. A red cabbage and hazelnut salad as an amuse bouche quickly confirmed the kitchen’s talents in that arena.

An endive salad was topped with ultra-thin slices of coppa ham and almonds, while tender cauliflower was paired with olives and fresh chervil. Shredded parmesan hides a serving of beet ravioli, and that shiny beige mound that appears to be a dessert is actually whipped up roasted parsnips, as good as a dessert. The rectangular dark wedge is Cochon Noir Gascon, meat of the highly prized black pig of the high Pyranees. This tender pork arrived with wedges of panisse and spinach.

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Postcard from Norfolk, Virginia: ‘Nobodies’ somebodies at the Chrysler

Above: One of Colectivo Subterraneos’ “Nobodies” on exhibit at the Chrysler Museum of Art through May 11.

Oaxaca has emerged as a global hub for contemporary printmaking, fueled by the medium’s rich history in Mexico and the city’s vibrant artistic heritage. Internationally renowned Oaxacan artists, most notably Rufino Tamayo and Francisco Toledo, invested heavily in developing their native city’s cultural infrastructure. Building on this foundation, numerous printmaking workshops now thrive in Oaxaca, fostering an environment of experimentation and collaboration.”

Curator’s notes, “Oaxaca Central: Contemporary Mexican Printmaking”

Unless you are new to my blog, you know I wander streets far and wide prowling for street art. I’ve been pursuing Colectivo Subterraneos“Nobodies” around corners in Oaxaca, Mexico, during numerous visits over the past few years.

When I went back to the land where I grew up, Virginia Beach, to visit my sister and her husband in early March, I was surprised to encounter a fresh crop of migrating “Nadies” peopling gallery walls in Norfolk’s Chrysler Museum of Art as part of “Oaxaca Central: Contemporary Mexican Printmaking.”

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Postcard from Lyon, France: Fertile ground for chefs

Above: Turnips with trout caviar at Armada

I know you might be thinking: “Seriously? Turnips?”

Lyon…. A culinary tradition that grew up to change the world of gastronomy…. It’s about food, lots of food, great food. Some of the greatest food on earth…. What is it exactly about this place? Over the past century, the system here, the tradition, whatever it is that took hold here, churned out a tremendous number of the world’s most important chefs…. Why Lyon? Why is this such a gastronomic capital?” 

Anthony Bourdain, Parts Unknown: Lyon, France, April 27, 2014

I can’t answer that. For Bourdain’s explanation, you might have to watch that episode of Parts Unknown. But I can state we lingered over some excellent meals during our stay in Lyon and hope these photos help you navigate among the many choices available.

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