Tag: sicily

Postcard from Noto, Sicily: Ever-Ready for ‘Lights. Camera. Action.’

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Above: Stairway climbing up to Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi in Noto

The earthquake of 1693 virtually wiped medieval Antica Noto off the map, along with eliminating roughly half of its population. Undeterred by the widespread devastation, Sicilians started anew. The fresh start resulted in a city basically built in one style over a 50-year period – Sicilian Baroque. Gorgeous. Stunningly picturesque, yet….

Supposedly 25,000 people inhabit Noto, but, wandering in the historic center, it feels as though there is nobody home but us tourists – a lot of them. Which is a flaw. Noto looks so perfect that is seems artificial, more like a movie set, which it has been numerous times.

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Postcard from Siracusa, Sicily: Sturdy columns of Greek temple recycled by several religions

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Above: Façade of the Duomo di Siracusa, or Cattedrale della Nativita di Maria Santissima

The chapel where some of Santa Lucia’s relics, featured in a recent post, are housed in the Cathedral of the Nativity of Mary Most Holy. A statue of her reigns up high on its façade to the right of the Virgin to whom the church is dedicated. Up on the left is San Marciano of Siracusa with San Pietro and San Paolo flanking the entrance down below.

Over the past 2,000 years, the history of Saint Marcian of Syracuse has become somewhat muddied. One version is that he was a follower of Peter the Apostle, who dispatched him to Sicily to preach in the year 40. His conversion rate was so high that the ruling Romans deemed him dangerous, and he was put to death. San Marciano became known as the first bishop of the city and is the patron saint of the archdiocese.

The “new” façade of the cathedral dates from after the 1693 earthquake and reflects the style categorized as High Sicilian Baroque. But the rest of the building has much deeper roots. The site was occupied by a 5th-century BC temple of Athena, possibly constructed under Dionysius I. Thirty-six substantial columns surrounded the outer perimeter of the temple – columns so substantial they withstood the devastating earthquake and can still be viewed on the north side of exterior and within the cathedral itself.

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Postcard from Siracusa, Sicily: Celebrating the bounty of the sea

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Above: Spaghetti a scoglio at Cod da Saretta

It must be frustrating to a traveler who only wants meat to visit Sicily where seafood dominates. For us, that was heaven. We were surprised we didn’t frequently order some of the dishes we expected to devour almost daily. Too many other temptations popped up on menus.

The first was pizza. Every city anywhere we have been, we are always on the lookout for Neapolitan-style pizzas. We even eat pizza in Austin once a week.

But despite the fact that Sicily has great pizzas exactly the style we love, we only consumed about three in two months. One reason was that the best restaurants and pizzerias, perhaps an over-simplified generalization, only offer it at night; the ones featuring it at lunch time tend to be tourist-oriented and often not as good. We tend to eat a main meal at lunch, one so substantial that’s it for the day. No room for late-night pizzas.

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