Postcard from Palermo, Sicily: Modern art in Sant’Anna haunt

Above: Richard Avedon’s 1981 photograph, “Natassja Kinski and the Serpent,” is superimposed over one of a cage protecting a cluster of bones in the crypt below Sant’Anna la Misericordia, home to Palermo’s Galleria d’Arte Moderna.

Granted this Richard Avedon photo of “Natassja Kinski” in the nude was not displayed in such close proximity to bones in the crypt of the church of Sant’Anna alla Misericordia, but, after all, nothing is more naked than bones. And churches in Italy have always been home to art, religious art that in the time of its creation was considered contemporary.

When citizens in Palermo determined they needed to have a Modern Art Museum in 1906, they boldly ventured forth to Venice in 1907 to acquire avant-garde works to supplement their Sicilian collection. Launched in 1895, the Venice Biennale quickly garnered international prestige. Ongoing buying trips through the years enabled the museum to trace the evolution of symbolism and modernism in art.

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Postcard from Oaxaca: Spots to savor and maybe crunch a few bugs

Above: El Amu created a fresh-from-the-farm atmosphere in town.

Spotlighting restaurants in alphabetical order sometimes launches into non-native cuisines; Boulenc is an example of this.

The French-style bakery never fails to impress, and it’s a go-to spot to snag a jar of just-peanuts crunchy mantequilla de cacahuete. Salads are sharable, and the fired-up pizza oven turns out pies we crave after a week of more traditional dishes. Plus, a nice affogato – gelato drowned in espresso – for dessert. The restaurant also has a cafe in the Jalatlaco neighborhood, Becino, that we did not visit.

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Postcard from Marseille, France: Taming ‘les tags sauvages’

Securing affordable housing leads artists to seek out urban neighborhoods sometimes reputed to be gritty. As noted in an earlier post featuring street art in Marseille, the creative vitality they bring is transformative. Quirky shops pop up. Inventive chefs open outlier cafes and restaurants with tables spilling out onto the sidewalks.

Walls once covered with threatening-looking, unauthorized tagging get reupholstered with a layer of more artistic grafitti. As a result, two of the most fun neighborhoods to explore in Marseille are Le Panier and Cours Julien, both uphill from the harbor.

Surrendering to urban artists, Marseille embraced them in 2018. The government launched an ambitious partnership with a group of artists, Massilia Graffiti, organizers of a successful street art festival in the Cours Julien area. Forty-thousand euros of public funds were invested in an innovative program to combat les tags sauvages, or wild tagging.

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