Author: postcardsfromsanantonio

Postcard from Siracusa, Sicily: Protector of eyes and the quill

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Above: Santa Lucia holy card superimposed over silver milagros displayed in Cattedrale della Nativita di Maria Santissima

She stands guard on the windowsill by my desk as I write. As the patron of eyesight and authors, Saint Lucy (283-384) has long been a favorite of mine. Both near-sighted and far-sighted, I’ve worn glasses since the second grade. And certainly my writing needs all the help it can get.

Having lost sight in my right eye a year ago, it seemed serendipitous that one of the spots the Mister planned on staying, Siracusa, turned out to be her hometown. A church dedicated to the saint, Chiesa di Santa Lucia alla Badia, was a block away from our rental – a proximity presenting an opportunity to soak up some of Santa Lucia’s goodwill to protect the left.

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Postcard from Siracusa, Sicily: Perambulations expose roots

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Above: Ficus macrophylla, or Moreton Bay fig tree

Sensuous buttresses snake out from these massive trees growing close to 100 feet tall in numerous parks in Sicily. Creepily, the species is nicknamed a strangler fig because in some cases, according to the Oregon State Department of Horticulture:

…seed germination occurs in the canopy of a host tree and the resulting seedling lives as an epiphyte until its roots establish contact with the ground. These then thicken into supplementary trunks, which may strangle the host, and ultimately the tree can become freestanding.

They are impressive, and seem a good place to start to introduce you to scenes from the island of Ortigia, known as the Citta Vecchia of Siracusa.

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Postcard from Siracusa, Sicily: Street Sweets

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Above: Il maestro di croccante

Of course, there’s gelato. The single scoop pictured below is rich hazelnut from what many claim is the best gelateria on Ortigia, Gusto on Via Roma. But granita, an icy slush in a multitude of flavors, is found everywhere as well and is perhaps even more popular among the natives. The cupful below is caffe, sweetened black coffee; no cup of espresso needed that day.

An unusual habit in Sicily is that these are fair game as breakfast foods. It’s not at all uncommon for Sicilians to order a granita with brioche on the side or an unwieldy looking brioche split 3/4 of the way through and stuffed to overflowing with two scoops of gelato in the morning hours.

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