Gayle Brennan Spencer – sending random thoughts to and from South Austin
1528. That is the year Spaniards founded San Cristobal de las Casas on a site nestled in the mountains of Chiapas.
The vestiges of their low-slung buildings lend this colonial city a distinctive intimacy.
These snapshots, postmarked after our return, provide a glimpse of the architecture in the heart of the city that has grown to about 150,000 people.
Thick stucco walls. Wood-framed windows. Clay tile roofs. No fear of color. Whimsical details. And… wait… even a Burger King?
If you didn’t meander through the streets from the Central Library to the Tobin Center last night, this evening brings another opportunity to experience the art, lights and sounds of Luminaria San Antonio 2014. Los Angeles-based La Santa Cecilia plays the main stage tonight. Had the opportunity to enjoy this group performing at the International Accordion Festival a couple of years ago. For a preview, watch the Tiny Desk Concert provided by National Public Radio.
Mistaken assumption corrected. Authentic Day of the Dead celebrations are something only found in small towns populated predominately by indigenous Mexicans. Wrong.
November 2, the Day of the Dead, is a godsend for cab drivers in San Cristobal de las Casas. This city’s main cemetery is a surprisingly long hike from the center of town, so it’s the busiest day of the year for taxistas.
The pantheon resembles a miniature city of mausoleums of all colors, shapes and sizes crammed closely together, each fully covering their allotted real estate. Sunday, the few through “streets” of this cemetery city were one chaotic traffic jam of pedestrians bearing food and flowers. Scampering children played hide-and-seek amongst the tombs.
The food preparations of some families were elaborate, resembling Thanksgiving feasts. Tables and chairs had been carted in. Some squeezed into mausoleums not much bigger than telephone booths. Some hired musicians, one poor drummer forced into a two-foot-wide space between the walls of two casitas for the dead. The sounds of guitars, marimbas and accordions were heard everywhere.
For those unable to prepare in advance, there were long rows of tented pop-up restaurants set up outside both entrances to the pantheon. Beer was flowing freely; caguamas (large family-size bottles) topped many a table. A major fiesta.
Even though many of the celebrants were taking photos of their families and selfies, we still felt taking photographs too intrusive. But here are a few….
Postcards from Barton Springs 