Postcard from Lecce, Italy: The road time flies upon offers no turning back

“Via Irremeabile d’ell Eternita” labels a columned entrance to the Cimitero di Lecce. Loosely translated by the blogger who knows no Italian beyond words frequently encountered on menus, it means the road to eternity has no return.

Although we walked down that road, we fortunately were able to turn around. Noted for my taphophilia, my love of cemeteries is restricted to wandering in and out of them, not an eagerness to take up any permanent residence.

While the Cimitero di Lecce is not as impressive as the monumental ones of Bologna, Turin and Genoa, symbols most often associated with freemasonry make exploring it interesting.

Freemasonry mystifies me. As do its symbols, many drawn from ancient Egyptian art.

Interpreting with the same level of expertise as applied to the Italian above, the skulls and crossbones are not meant to intimidate but are a symbol of the new life to come. The eternal flame symbolizes enlightenment. There is the unblinking, all-seeing eye. A winged disk might represent a soul that has left its body on its way up to heaven; an acacia branch immortality. The owl, perhaps originating from the one always perched on the shoulder of the Goddess of Wisdom Minerva, represents knowledge and ability to see in the darkest night.

For all of these, there are antithetical dark meanings assigned to the symbols by those who regard freemasonry as akin to worship of the devil.

Historically, masonic membership was prevalent. Among famous masons were George Washington, Benjamin Franklin, Sam Houston, David Crockett, Theodore Roosevelt, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Henry Ford, Winston Churchill and Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna. Its symbols are engraved in the design of our own dollar bill. Even the Mister’s Boerne-raised grandfather was a mason with a mantlepiece full of the wise owls he favored.

When the lights are permanently turned out for me and I am left standing in the middle of the road with no turning back, I would gladly welcome the appearance of a little owl to guide me along the dark path that lies ahead.

Postcard from Lecce, Italy: Evening prowling recommended

We arrived at the train station in Lecce about 8 p.m. and walked to the place we were staying less than a mile away. The streets were softly illuminated to highlight the historic center’s Baroque architecture, and everything seemed as gentle as a whisper after the ever-present bustling hubbub of Naples.

We stayed in Lecce around the beginning of November, past the high tourist season so almost the only people around were locals. The narrow streets and limited parking discourage automobiles from entering the historic center enclosed by ancient limestone walls. Weeknights were fairly calm, but the town always turned out in full force for the traditional weekend night passeggiata, a relaxing evening stroll. Young people filled the cafes and bars later, but most of the streetscapes were as soothing as these photographs.

Lecce is located in the heel of Italy’s boot in the state of Puglia, or Apulia.

Postcard from Naples, Italy: Final reflections

Leaving you with a grab-bag of images from our month in the third largest city in Italy. Views of the bay. Sea cats. Reflections in windows. And somehow lots of shoes.

The blog is now departing Campania on the top front of the boot to a spot closer to the heel – Lecce in the state of Puglia.