Postcard from Guanajuato, Mexico: Templo de San Cayetano, the patron saint of jobseekers

The amazingly rich vein of silver discovered in the mine of La Valenciana provided Antonio de Obregon y Alcocer with more than enough wealth to commission a major church in honor of his patron saint, San Cayetano.

The Churrigueresque church perched above the city of Guanajuato was constructed of cantera rosa, pink volcanic stone, between 1765 and 1788. The second tower either collapsed or was never built, perhaps because the original architect died before the church was completed. Three enormous gilded altars reflect the profits mined nearby.

San Cayetano (1480-1547) was not a fan of wealth, however. In fact he turned his back on greedy clergymen he encountered in Rome and worked in Vicenzia, Italy, for reform of the church. Becoming a priest at age 33, he distributed his riches to the poor. He dedicated himself to helping the lower classes and those in need of work. To combat usurious lenders preying on the poor, he founded a charitable organization accepting pawned objects in exchange for loans.

As San Cayetano is regarded as a patron saint of laborers, he probably comforted the miners. He is considered the saint to answer prayers for pan y trabajo.

Struggling to land a job? Maybe it’s time for a pilgrimage to La Valenciana to light a candle to San Cayetano.

Postcard from Guanajuato, Mexico: Statuesque silhouettes against the sky

It’s hard to resist focusing on Guanajuato’s landmark people perched up high. Muses grace the roofline of Teatro Juarez. Father Hidalgo, famed for his grito igniting the revolt against Spain, stands near the city’s presa, or dam.

The giant statue of El Pipila lords over the city. As pipila means a female turkey, the nickname given to Juan Jose de los Reyes Martínez Amaro (1782–1863) probably was not meant as flattery. But El Pipila earned respect as a hero of the Mexican Revolution when he strapped a large stone on his back for protection against weapons above to storm the Spaniards holed up in Alhondiga de Granaditas. He slathered the granary’s large wooden door with tar and set it ablaze, allowing the citizens of Guanajuato to overtake the forces inside.

The woman representing peace who presides over Plaza de la Paz, the city’s main plaza, was commissioned by President Porfirio Diaz in 1903. Her peaceful reign soon was interrupted. President Diaz did not care for his opponent in the 1910 election so he locked him up in jail. When Diaz declared himself victorious, the citizenry sensed the election results were rigged. Diaz was forced from power, and years of civil war marked by frequent violent changes in presidents followed.

Wish the threat of locking opponents up and talking about rigged elections did not sound familiar.

Postcard from Guanajuato, Mexico: A valley of colorful layers climbing toward the hilltops

Nicely elevated at 6,600 feet, the city of Guanajuato is squeezed into a valley so narrow that her colorful casas creep higher and higher up the surrounding slopes. As you move away from the main plazas, the climbing streets become mere pedestrian passageways often only a couple of feet wide. The mountaintops serve as beautiful backdrops for the city, and whatever direction you look reveals layers of architecture added through the centuries.

The shots through the potted cacti were from our rooftop patio, with a comfortable couch for reading, a lime tree contributing its fruit to our margaritas and power for the Mister’s travel guitar. As the sun set, we don’t think anyone ever noticed the blues emanating from our patio amidst the afternoon surround sound created by the rowdy chorus of rooftop dogs and firecrackers sporadically ignited to mark the journeys of statues of some saint or another to different sanctuaries.