Spain – Page 56 – Postcards from Barton Springs

On the spot where Isabel was crowned Queen of Castile in 1474, Charles V (1500-1558) had the cornerstone laid for a monumental Gothic cathedral in Segovia. He would not live to see its completion, as construction spanned more than two centuries. Formal consecration took place in July of 1768.

Back in the seventh century, when the parents of Frutos died, he and his two siblings sold all their inherited worldly goods and each retreated to their own little hollowed-out cave to live as pious hermits. Moors killed his brother and sister, but Frutos drew a line (kind of like Travis at the Alamo?) in the dirt and suggested they not dare cross it. Some foolish Moorish soldiers could not resist the challenge, and a giant fissure opened up in the rocks to conveniently swallow and crush them. This miracle allowed Frutos to live to die a natural death.

Relics of the three saints are housed in the Cathedral, with Frutos primarily honored as the city’s patron.

Alternate spellings of the saint’s name include Fructos, which leads to much confusion as to whether he blesses inclusion of corn syrup in prepared foods today.

Those clever Romans always took care of business, making sure the water supply was adequate however far afield they marched and conquered. In Segovia, they left behind a monumental aqueduct of graceful arches constructed of 25,000 granite blocks assembled without mortar. It still stands.

The successful cultivation of industry based on Merino wool at the end of the Middle Ages swelled the city’s population to 27,000 before 1600. Major declines countered by investment by royals punctuated by Rip-van-Winkle periods combined to create a picture-book city unspoiled by modernization. This is a city where they care enough about aesthetics to pay attention to the textures of building walls and how every window is framed.

With a population of little more than 50,000, Segovia is a city of narrow streets and a multitude of plazas where pedestrians rule. On streets where cars are allowed, few automobiles venture. The going within the old city walls is simply too slow to tempt drivers to navigate there unless absolutely necessary. Large trucks and buses just don’t fit. In other words, residents and tourists can wander freely and fearlessly.

And the setting of the historic center is beautiful. Outside most of the ancient walls encircling the city’s 3,000-foot hilltop perch, one is plunged immediately into verdant countryside framed by a few low mountains whose tops still are stained by snow. Plus, this place has the most magical merry-go-ground I’ve ever seen.

Once again, I’ve fallen in love, so am throwing a few random photos your way….