Postcard from Lisboa, Portugal: Belem reflects the blessings bestowed by pepper

Arms and the heroes, from Lisbon’s shore, sailed through seas never dared before, with awesome courage, forging their way to the glorious kingdoms of the rising day.

The Lusiads, Luis de Camoes, 1572

Vasco da Gama sailed out of the Lisboa harbor in 1497 and would not return for more than two years. By then, he had lost half his fleet of four ships and approximately two-thirds of his men.

Yet his return was triumphant. His ships were laden with precious cargo, including ivory and prized spices, primarily pepper, from India. The cargo was valued at more than 60 times the cost of his expedition, and da Gama’s journey around the Cape of Good Hope proved for the first time the riches of India could be reached by sea. His trip poised Portugal to establish colonies all the way up and down both coasts of Africa and in Goa, India, which would remain under its domination for the next 450 years.

The golden age of Portugal was launched, creating a kingdom envied by royalty throughout Europe. In gratitude to da Gama and God and with the immense profits from pepper, King Manuel I (1469-1521) began construction of the massive Church and Monastery of Jeronimos at Belem. The ornate architectural style featuring elaborate stone carvings reflecting the country’s seafaring dominance and global influences became known as Manueline.

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The style also is evident in the nearby Belem Tower, built between 1515 and 1520 to protect the harbor from invaders. Vasco da Gama sailed past it on his last voyage to Goa to serve as viceroy in 1524, but he died of malaria shortly after his arrival. His remains later made his final trip past the Belem Tower on the way to interment in a place of honor in the Church of San Jeronimos.

Postcard from Lisboa, Portugal: Dreams of eternity etched in stone

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A bookworm’s dream. Bound for eternity with book in hand.

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Or perhaps a book in hand and an adoring dog at your feet.

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Doggie heaven. A fresh fowl ever ready everyday.

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Alas, the curse of a king. Forced to keep sword in hand and faithful hound ever vigilant until kingdom come.

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Or eternally wait for an answer from God.

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Or the poor saint who is given no rest. Her work on earth still in demand. Saint Justina, chastised for chastity and Catholicism. A recipe destined for martyrdom. Beheaded in the year 304, the rest of you unearthed and removed by papal politics some 1,500 years later for veneration by the faithful in Lisboa, far away from your Basilica in your native Padua and leaving the residents of Padua without the protection offered by the potent physical presence of their patroness.

I have no worries of being publicly preserved for prayers from the faithful. Sainthood passed me by at an early age.

But, if it’s at all possible to be buried with book in hand, please make it a well-loaded Kindle.

And, maybe, just let Howie rest in peace wherever he lies.

Postcard from Lisboa, Portugal: Bringing home the groceries

Requesting they not overload bags, sometimes I have been known to whine to checkers at grocery stores about having a second-floor kitchen at home. A flight of stairs separates the car from our kitchen. But our apartment in Lisboa might have reformed me permanently.

There is a fairly large grocery store close to our apartment. As a pigeon flies. But as a person walks, a few flights of stairs must be navigated when bringing home the goods.

These photos represent the climb. One photo is shot downward, not because that is the direction we get to go but because a restaurant’s umbrellas blocked the view of some of the stairs.

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Motivated by a sale on a favorite bottle of wine, the Mister has made a couple of extra sprints back and forth without me.

At the base of the first flight of stairs is one of the hole-in-the-wall ginjinha bars. Ginjinha is an extremely fortified cherry-flavored beverage served in shot glasses – think an adult-version of Luden’s cough drops on steroids. Although it doesn’t have to be thrown down in one-gulp multiples the way Anthony Bourdain did before staggering off down a street.

As we carried up a supply of groceries/wine this afternoon, I was wondering if a one-shot stop at the base would be helpful.

What would Anthony do?