Postcard from Oaxaca, Mexico: Valentine’s Day Battle

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The fight spilled out onto the sidewalk in front of us.

Alas, the piñata-maker had but one heart remaining.

Mickey lost, cursed to live a heartless existence before his inevitable fate, being beaten to smithereens by a gang of young children.

Postcard from San Martin Tilcajete, Oaxaca: Carnaval customs as creative as their carvings

Brightly painted, intricately carved copal figures of real and fantasy animals, alebrijes, from the small town of San Martin Tilcajete, Oaxaca, are known around the world. Whole families of carvers pass down their traditional techniques to provide their livelihoods, with every home seeming to double as a retail outlet.

Every year they unleash that creativity to stage a mezcal-infused celebration of Carnaval, the final day of wild indulgence before Lent. Despite the loss of young men who have left to find work in el norte, there seemed to be no shortage of volunteers willing to smear their bodies in motor oil in hopes of planting kisses on young women unafraid of ruining their clothes. We witnessed no such embraces, but the afternoon was still young.

Other young men engaged in crossdressing, some quite convincing, as though there were not more women than men remaining in the community. The formally attired bridesmaids created a colorful entourage parading through the streets prior to the sham wedding of the bride and groom performed by a jovial padre of sorts.

Outsiders were embraced, so much to the point that our friend, Clyde, padre-looking himself, was drafted into the ceremony to provide the blessing of the bride and groom by exuberantly splashing water on them and anyone standing in close proximity.

American politicians should take note. We didn’t meet the town’s mayor, but he or she knows how to encourage enthusiastic support. The mayor’s ambassadors were freely distributing shots of mezcal and dipping into buckets of tepache and horchata to quench the thirst of all, whether residents or tourists.

Maybe San Antonio should forget spending money on expensive advertising for visitors. Mayor Ivy Taylor simply needs to enlist volunteers to offer complimentary shots of tequila and margaritas along the River Walk. Word of mouth about San Antonio’s hospitality would spread like wildfire.

 

Postcard from Oaxaca, Mexico: Strolling after lunch

Encountered a lively little parade on our way back to our casita after lunch Saturday. Don’t think it had much to do with building hype for the Super Bowl.

And then, last night in our barrio, the fireworks started and tubas tooted about 9 with a rowdy group of sombreroed locals parading into town to set off castillos. Wasn’t fast enough to grab the camera and unsure of the occasion of that parade either. Perhaps honoring a saint’s day, or perhaps simply because it was Saturday night.