Category: Mexico

Postcard from San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico: Stairways to heaven need more prep time in the gym

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The trip back from the grocery store in Lisbon, Portugal, required mounting staircase after staircase, but San Cristobal de las Casas is perched at a much higher elevation, above 7,000 feet. The stairmaster I patronize for only a few minutes a couple of times a week before trips is located here in San Antonio, at a wimpy elevation of 650 feet.

Of course, the best views require climbing. So climb we did.

Guidebooks claim only 79 steps need to be mounted to reach Guadalupe Church (1834), but it certainly seemed as though they miscounted. The climb up to Templo San Cristobal was even harder, although it politely zigzagged back and forth. I found myself stopping for what I claimed were breaks to enjoy the vistas but were obviously opportunities to try to catch my breath.

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Looking straight down the steps from Guadalupe Church on foot is one thing, but, while we were in San Cristobal, there was one of those crazy urban bike races. Plunging down the stairs on a bike was part of the course.

Think I’ll stick to walking. Thanksgiving excuses behind me, heading back to the gym to see if I can manage to talk myself into a few more flights on that stairmaster. No telling where the Mister will make me climb next.

 

 

 

Postcard from San Cristobal de las Casas: Taking time to smell the flowers along the way….

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Slow travel. It definitely is not for everyone.

We started renting houses when our now-married daughter was a toddler and have been avoiding hotels ever since. Instead of constantly moving around, we stay longer and get to know places on foot.

Finding a comfortable spot in the right location is time-consuming but so worthwhile. Being able to have breakfast in robes and slippers while reading the paper and planning the day ahead suits our personalities. Plus, we tend to eat a large lunch after major walks and generally don’t want another meal out. Homemade soup, fresh salads or panini often serve as our dinners, and having a pleasant place to make margaritas or enjoy a bottle of wine is relaxing and saves fortunes.

In San Cristobal de las Casas, we were in the heart of things but on a quiet street. Columbine right outside the window where we ate breakfast attracted a wide assortment of hummingbirds throughout the morning, and the garden even had a “margarita tree” providing fresh lime juice.

Postcard from Zinacantan, Chiapas, Mexico: Roosters Rule the Roost

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Densely clustered deep plum and royal blue embroidered flowers blanket the huipiles of women running errands in San Cristobal de las Casas from the nearby Tzotzil town of Zinacantan. They were my favorites spotted on the streets.

As with San Juan Chamula, male leaders operate the small town of Zinacantan somewhat autonomously, charging a toll to outside visitors. But here the women are not subjected to polygamous marriages.

The feathers young women spend months weaving into their bridal outfits do symbolically spell out their standing in the marriage. The feathers aren’t brilliant parrot or peacock feathers but are those of the humble hen. Unable to fly, hens don’t flee the coop. Chickens stay close to home, subject to the rooster’s whims.

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Several churches abut plazas at the heart of Zinacantan. The church of San Lorenzo dates to 1546. We are not sure why Saint Lawrence was popular, but he is the patron saint of chefs.

As punishment for having distributed the church’s wealth to the poor instead of Roman authorities in the year 258, Lawrence was slowly grilled upon an iron grate. He is alleged to have quipped to his tormenters, “Turn me over; I’m done on that side.” Perhaps Nana (Katherine Ann Conway Brennan, 1887-1972) was prescient in naming my father Lawrence (Lawrence Conway Brennan, 1918-1988), for no one enjoyed grilling a thick sirloin steak, fork in one hand and Bourbon in the other, more than Dad.

San Sebastian has a more obvious connection to a second church built about 200 years later. Some believe the saint who was martyred about the same time as Saint Lawrence miraculously appeared to construct this church in Zinacantan with his own hands, a feat he accomplished in only three days.

Others claim he reappeared in Mexico only to be pierced by arrows shot by Spanish soldiers, as he originally had been in Rome. He died, once again, on the site of the church and was buried there. Saint Sebastian is a patron of athletes and soldiers and a protector against the plague, particularly beneficial when Spanish soldiers are spreading European diseases among the native population with no immunity to them.